If you put a 4 ohm speaker on it then you are still going to be limited to that 3. The 8ohms speaker will be asked to dissipate about 16 watts, while the 4ohm speaker will need to dissipate only 33 watts or so. Use an impedance matching device. These devices are expensive, but can reduce the risk of failure due to overheating. If you do, you will cause the amp to clip in the same way as when you clip into 8ohms. Base on your response, I guess it is quite likely that I damaged the 'old' amp as speaker wiring was traditional.
Furthermore, most amplifiers exhibit higher distortion with greater output power due to thermal and other physical characteristics of the output devices. Now thats refreshing; an actual first person example of the thread subject! Developing this website and answering the questions and comments requires a lot of time and effort. So, yes, you want a good power cord, but 'normal' good, not super premium ultra-expensive good. We'll solve the bottom part of the equation first. You can operate 4-ohm speakers with an 8-ohm amplifier if you use caution and understand how impedance works. He said they changed tubes a lot but the unit never failed, other than its appetite for 6550As it was a rock. If you have three speakers, each at 8ohms, divide 8 by three to get a total impedance of 2.
When there is a long cable run to be split to go to both speakers Parallel: Join the cables from both speakers to the cable from the amplifier Series: Join the two speakers in series, then join this to the feed cable When the cables from each speaker come back to a wall plate Parallel: Simply join the terminal as shown Series: The series connection is made with one join You may have noticed that no matter which scenario is used, all the parallel diagrams are technically wired the same as each other — if you doubt me, trace the connections with your fingers on any two of the parallel connection methods. Sure this doesn't sound like a good idea. The diagram that jsmithepa posts is for a single channel not a pair. These allow you to set the impedance that the receiver sees as well as allowing control of the volume of each pair. Higher efficiency does not necessarily mean it's a better speaker. Even it the power line goes completely dead, it maintains available line voltage power, for a certain amount of time. Series Connections: As the graphic shows, you connect the positive wire to speaker A's positive terminal, connect a wire from speaker A's negative terminal to speaker B's positive wire, and then connect the negative wire to the negative terminal of speaker B.
They may sound odd or great, it depends on how the sound from the two systems combine. This will give you the volume control you require and also look after the impedance as it will have a series resistor in the circuit to keep the minimum impedance above 4 ohms. Also be aware that the impedance volume controls will only reduce the volume from whatever the amp volume control is set to. Your amp will have to be stable into 3 ohms to be able to drive this combination in parallel. In order to do this properly so that your classroom audio system sounds great and you are not overworking your amplifier, a series-parallel configuration must be used. For more detail see Summary of Connecting 2 speakers There are only really two ways to connect 2 speakers to one amplifier — either in parallel or series. That would raise the impedance to 12-14 ohms which is safe for a receiver with an 8 ohm minimum.
The only draw back is you might blown the speaker when playing too loud as 2 ohm output could be too much for it. To his list I would add Rod Elliott's excellent site. The amp is likely to run hot, if you don't have circuit protection you could fry it, and it different volumes and frequencies, the impedence of your speakers will not stay stable so you'll probably find the speaker impedence drops quite a bit below 4ohm at some points. This is often where the go above but not below thing comes from. They have helped me narrow down my issue so that I feel I can properly articulate my questions for a hi-fi of 75 W rms per channel that support 6 ohm speakers where I want to add one 4 ohm speaker per channel : 1 can I use different guage speaker wire to help balance the power to the speakers; either to increase power to the 4 ohm or decrease to 6 ohms if wired in series — which seems to be the lessons I learned on your pages. Typically though, the average impedance of a 4 ohm system will be around 6 ohms 60Hz-3Khz then 6 ohms to 10 ohms 3Khz-18Khz including the cross over. Bottom line - do you think I should just avoid messing with the series wiring and just replace the 'A' 4-6 ohm set of speakers? If this happens, simply power the unit off, unplug the unit for 10 minutes and then plug it back in and power the unit back on.
Never drop your ohm load below what the amp is rated. But, with a majority of amps, if you stay in the 4 ohm to 16 ohms range total impedance per amp channel, you shouldn't have any problems. Now, there are a few speakers out there, that have a reasonable nominal impedance rating, but across the full range, the impedance is all over the place, going very low at certain frequencies. The original road tech for the rig told me that while he realized the situation wasnt ideal, it was, well an endorsement rig; they had backup, and the factory would air express another one anywhere they needed in an emergency. It won't affect tone but there are stresses that are causing damage that you can't see until something gives and you have to spend money to repair it. We are not talking about connecting two speakers to a stereo amp, as that simply involves connecting one speaker to each amplifier left and right.
And the surge suppression of the Line Conditioner is related to voltage surges not current surges. Although a particular loudspeaker may be rated for 4 ohms nom , it may actually provide a more stable load for an amp to drive than another speaker rated at 8 ohms. Note, this is backwards from the series connection. But, as long as the voltage stays within the normal bounds plus a very healthy margin, the devices have no effect on the circuit. This is done by running the positive lead from the amp to the positive terminal of the 1st speaker, then from the negative terminal of the same speaker run a length of wire to the positive terminal of the 2nd speaker. The resistor does take some power, but in a domestic install this is normally quite okay. I have only ever owned one amp my very first hifi purchase 7yrs ago, in total ignorance I went to Richer Sounds and looked for an amp with phono stage and no tone controls.
I want two of the speakers to be connected with impedance matching volume controls. Hello Geoff, Thanks for your mostexcellent articles. In this article we look at how and when to connect 2 speakers in parallel or series. I wish you all the best and I will definitely follow your website for any new information. As Ohms drop, you get closer and closer to a short circuit. The volume controls on the other two speakers will only reduce the volume, not make them louder than the four speakers.
Americanaudiophile - Thanks so much for your help! If your amplifier has an A and B speaker selector, you can use this for a simple way of connecting two sets of speakers in parallel. You take the positive wires from 2 diff speakers and connect them to 1 of the positive connections on your amp, then you take the 2 negative wires from your speakers and connect them to 1 negative connection on your amp. You'll certainly get sound out of the 4 ohm speakers with your amp, but for how long is another matter! What would happen when I installed a 4 ohm speaker to 2 ohm output? Actually, I think it does affect tone to a degree. I'm guessing you can use just about any conventional speaker with ths amp. This question crops up regularly and the basics behind it are nearly always misunderstood. In the rare event that very low impedances tax the amplifier, quick acting circuitry will protect it from damage.
Lowering the load impedance lowers the damping ratio, which is the ratio between the load and the electrical source impedance of the amplifier, itself. To wire them in series you could follow the top right-hand diagram in the article above. So, assuming you have a good power cord, one of a reasonable and standard size, there should be no need to waste money on an ultra-expensive replacement cord. The Ohms rating stated on an amplifier is generally the minimum, not maximum. The power tubes simply refuse to put out all that much more current with a lower-impedance load, so death by overheating with a too-low load is all but impossible - not totally out of the question but extremely unlikely.